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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.